If you want to do zenithal and don't own an airbrush I'd recommend priming black and then drybrushing white with exclusively downward strokes. Next, a few coats of various colors of watered-down cheap craft paint, help quickly build up some earth tones to roughly match my mat. 31% said "I've never tried zenithal painting" 25% said "I don't use zenithal painting" 20% said "I don't understand what zenithal painting is" John the OFM : 03 Dec 2020 1:52 p.m. PST: I never heard if it. abelp01: 03 Dec 2020 1:56 p.m. PST: I've used the method with rattle cans and airbrush, it works better with the airbrush, more control, IMHO. That is what I did in my Fire Giant from Blood Rage. - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: After doing some tests with citadel contrast paints over metal base coats I want to try two different metal colors over a black primer as a base for my heresy era thousand sons. Weather can be an issue if you’re using a rattle can, but it’s not a huge deal. 1250 Death Company List (jump) W:0 D:0 L:0 paint the details (armour joints, metal trims, eye lenses etc). I usually just use the citadel rattle cans. No airbrush, so i have to stick to rattle cans. Zenithal spray highlighting: advice & guidance please! There you have it, it is that easy. The first thing to know is that this technique requires a spray primer. One of the things I came across was the use of zenithal highlights (some might refer to it as an undercoat). Lock in the miniature with a satin or matt varnish. Prime the whole model black. For this I used pro acryl dark blue gray as the base coat but then I went in with Reaper void Blue which is a beautiful dark deep blue for the shadows. I started with using PVA and sand to give the bases some texture before using a rattle can and zenithal highlights to establish the overall colors. When I first started out in this hobby, I did as everybody else does, look at videos on Youtube. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. Learn how your comment data is processed. Zenithal highlighting on models can be a huge and somewhat complex topic and it's with some reservation that I'm posting this whole "tutorial." this suggestion is based on my way of painting base colours on marines (but I do it with airbrush): Up to this point my suggestion is what you asked for, the following is what I suggest you do for a further nice paintjob (my hobby-itch side of me couldn't stop here with the advice): Now you have a fair chance to bring home some paint-job prices when doing tournaments! But it is possible to achieve a similar effect. You might not want to cover nearly as much of the model, as you normally would with a zenithal highlight. Especially in … Blogs Blood Angels | Veritas Vitae | Battle Reports | Terrain | IXth Legion | Miscellaneous Imperials Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done to get you by for the next few months. This technique is used to brighten the highlights on your mini, while at the same time darkening the shadows. 6th zenithal highlight - Vallejo ivory Note - The first zenithal highlight was applied per the whole model except the underneath. I use a two step priming process of a base of grey, then a white “zenithal” highlight from the top and 45* around the sides. Make sure not to make the primer go on to think, that might cover up details on the model. Here is my first attempt at zenithal priming with auto store rattle cans (that's what I had): I see what people mean about the auto primer nozzles: the fan shape makes the spray tough to control. But when doing armies (especially space marines) both money-wise and time-wise I find that is a better/more effective option to get into airbrushing. That is what I did in my Fire Giant from Blood Rage. You can use spraypaint (referred to as "rattle can" by miniatures painters) to not only prime your figures, but to also base color, AND highlight them. 1850 Death Company List (mech) W:0 D:0 L:0 You can use an aerosol primer but I get more consistent results from an airbrush. The TGMPStudio store is for you that need some bases for your miniature painting project, wether it be basses for a whole army or a display base for your favourite miniature. Edited by battle captain corpus, 14 August 2019 - 10:28 AM. This technique can also be used to increase the contrast of your OSL (object source light). In my opinion this is a good base to start from to get a general highlight onto the miniature before you start working on details. Airbrush or rattle can; doesn’t matter. Your email address will not be published. You can even combine the two methods og using this technique. 1500 Light Mech List W:0 D:0 L:2 Dreadnought List W:2 D:0 L:1 Your email address will not be published. Speed and efficiency was the name of the game (as always). This will allow for the pin wash to flow very nicely. Using a piece of foam dabbed in black paint and wiped off stipple some pitting on the armour panels of your vehicles. Then at a 45 degree angle, relative to the light source, spray the light gray. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. As always, we start by priming the miniature. I’m interested to find out who’s had any luck with spray/rattle can zenith highlights with Blood Angels? I use rustoleum flat black and flat white to prime, and never had problem when I … White tends to look chalky. First I attach the models to my trusty-crusty piece of ancient cardboard with poster putty, then I prime with Army Painter Uniform Grey (from a rattle can). It was a great eye opener for me and I could churn out paint jobs (especially space marines) that would have taken ages with paintbrush to do to the same paint job quality level. The award winning painters typically suggest airbrushing primer, over any rattle can. battle captain corpus and ixzion like this. So I suggest you look into airbrushing and save yourself the expense of GW cans and the whims of outdoor weather conditions. Especially in … 2000 Heavy Mech List W:0 D:0 L:1 Two Towers List W:0 D:0 L:0 This process starts with a zenithal prime. For the German cans, I paint them a base coat of Vallejo Dark Gray, then highlight with Vallejo Neutral Gray. I don't consider myself an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but hope to share what I know about the topic with those folks in the same boat as me. You might not want to cover nearly as much of the model, as you normally would with a zenithal highlight. If you have an airbrush, you can also play with tinted zenithals. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. Gloss varnish. Apply decals on the gloss surface (use Micro Sol and Micro Set for best results. Depending on how intense or spread out you want your OSL. The light gray will help to make the transition from black white much smoother. I saw this in one of Sorastros amazing videos, so he needs a lot of credit for teaching me this technique. It is possible you have seen me use this in my painting a zombie step-by-step article. Generally you will use just three colors, black, gray, and white. The result is just as good as you'd get with rattle cans (if you know how to drybrush properly anyway) and you don't have to deal with finniky white spray primer. The two shades of red will give a nice 3D-effect on the scratches. - posted in + BLOOD ANGELS +: Hello you lovely folks! Straight from above, spray the model with the white paint. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. The process is simple and pretty straight forward. Make sure to let the primer fully cure before painting the model. At a 45-60 degree angle, spray the model with the light gray paint. Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done First I primed the model all black, then at a 45 degree angle sprayed on the light gray, and adding a bit more from the direction of the sword. Tutorial – This is how I do zenithal highlights, Tutorial – Using bark as rock formation on terrain pieces, The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – Part 2 – Newspapers, The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles – Part 1, A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer), A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray), A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White), An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush). Yesterday I had some great fun with the blue paints (you can find that here). Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. I, as most others, started out (late 90's in my case) priming my models with spray cans and using spray can varnish at the end of the paint job. Vallejo Spray Cans for zenithal highlight (tests!) Assuming you're completely "allergic" to airbrushing, and insist on spraycans, this is what I'd try out if I were you, but try it out it on a test mini first. Please welcome zenithal priming, one of the most efficient ways to improve your skills in miniatures painting. This will become your brightest highlights. If you prime the model black. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: This step is your usual priming step. Especially in northern climates like here in Illinois, that can be a serious problem for hobbyists. Edited by Imren, 14 August 2019 - 11:02 AM. youtube have good tutorials on how to use these decal fixers). 1750 Hybrid List W:0 D:0 L:0 You currently have javascript disabled. You then lightly apply your base colours over your primer to very quickly add a ton of natural shading and highlights. Especially in northern climates like here in […] At the TGMPStudio blog you can find Kickstarter tabletop game news, tutorials, process photos from different projects and other stuff that I think you might like. You can even get a pseudo-zenithal by dry brushing the lighter colour on with a large makeup brush and focusing on where the light will hit the miniature. I had to hold the can sideways for the zenithal white coat. For British gas cans, I use exactly the same process as the vehicles themselves, only in miniature: base coat, stipple, highlight. It can all be done with different coloured spray cans, but it is a bit harder to control the bursts from a spray can. Apocalypse W:1 D:0 L:0 | Heresy 2500 Mechanised IXth W:2 D:1 L:0. Like if you notice the shoulder pads get pretty dark even though a zenithal would leave them pretty bright. Depending on how intense or spread out you want your OSL. Nice highlights without effort? I’ve been painting miniatures on the regular for a few years now, and I know enough to say that I still have a lot to learn. I’ve put a lot of energy into studying — how to apply a primer with a rattle can, how to block in colors, and how to get those nice, crispy edge highlights. Apply a thin coat of red all over the miniature, it's important that the coat is thin so that this red coat allows for the black preshading show the shading and white on the highlight areas show red, this is the hard part, probably you will have to practice before hand and train yourself with the spray can trigger to spray thinly and even. And it works very effectively. Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done to get you by for the next few months. That helped me to get the highlights and shadows on the skin, and still make the OSL look bright. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. But still make sure you get full coverage, otherwise your paints might not stick to the model, once you start painting it. Today I checked out the P3 … Read more Re(a)dy or not, here I come. Several functions may not work. This is a general statement, and I found it to be the case when I primed Storm Troopers with my Rustoleum rattle cans. Here is my first attempt at zenithal priming with auto store rattle cans (that's what I had You can even combine the two methods og using this technique. And then white straight on from the lightsource, it helps you increase the constrast of your OSL. Especially in northern climates like here in Illinois, that can be a serious problem for hobbyists. Use a dark brown (van Dyke brown or burnt umber) oil paint diluted in artist's spirit (oil paint thinner) and do a pin wash in the recesses, wait an hour and clean up the pooling with a brush dampened with spirits. Community Forum Software by IP.BoardLicensed to: David Johnston (Brother Argos) and the Bolter and Chainsword, This is not recommended for shared computers, battle captain corpus and Charlo like this. 15. That’s just one reason why many people opt for using an airbrush. 1000 Scout list W:0 D:0 L:0 My personal preference for painting over a Zenithal highlight is to use a layering or glazing technique to achieve a smooth finish. Cans of spray paint don’t work very well in the cold. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. It is what it is. Saxon Dog's Technique (blocking colors, washes, and highlights over a dark washed, white primer; Most of the video's I've seen on YouTube lately have started from a zenithal prime and then used inks, glazes, or "contrasts" paints to build up from there. Two blog posts in two days is a first for a while but it’s a public holiday here so I’ve had some extra time with my new P3 paints and my SCE Underworld’s Warband. Winter is coming, and for anyone who paints miniatures (or gunpla, or other kinds of models) that means one thing: You had better have all your priming done to get you by for the next few months. Glazing uses the pre-shade to keep the shadows and highlights we have already placed on the model. Finally, if I want to depict a water can, I paint on the obligatory white cross. Using the base red colour you sprayed with (perhaps Mephiston red will work if you use Halfords red spray can) and a lighter red (Wild rider red or Evil sunz) do small scratches on the armour, focus on lower legs, arms and the knees. Zenithal priming uses a gradient of grays to mimic the sun at mid day. Before finally spraying white from above and straight from the sword on to model. Just be aware if you’re out in freezing cold or crazy humidity, your results might be crappy. That’s just one reason why many people opt for using an airbrush. 25% said "I don't use zenithal painting" 20% said "I don't understand what zenithal painting is" John the OFM : 03 Dec 2020 1:52 p.m. PST: I never heard if it. Required fields are marked *. You don’t want this to cover the whole model, only the surface area the paint can get to at that angle. I’ve been painting miniatures on the regular for a few years now, and I know enough to say that I still have a lot to learn. Hold the can about 5-7″ away from the mini. I’m quite a proficient painter and have been hobbying since the dark ages (89’) so I’m confident trying my hand to most things. Each successive highlight concentrates more towards the front and top of the model until finally your applying the final highlight just to … Make sure only to hit the top surface of your model. For this you should use a synthetic brush (round, size 0-ish) as the oilpaint and artist's spririt will ruin your nice sable hair brushes. 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